Sturnham explains, the pH of the finished product plays just as important a role in determining its strength. However, when finding the best glycolic acid product for your skin, it’s not purely about the percentage of acid inside.Īs Dr. The skincare industry has clearly picked up on our ill-advised appetite for super-strength exfoliators, with countless glycolic-based products promising mega concentrations, with the implication that this will lead to equally mega results. Ten per cent is still a punchy dose, so you only need to do a deep-working acid treatment once a week.” “Other skin-stimulating ingredients are added instead, such as menthol or peppermint, to make the skin tingle, so you feel like you are getting an acid exfoliation. Sometimes these are buffered to a level that leaves hardly any active acid at all,” says Dr. “Anything claiming to have higher levels is likely to be buffered with an alkaline agent, which is quite misleading. In the EU, the amount of ‘active acid’ permissible in a home-use product is 10 per cent. So many people are obliterating their skin barriers with exfoliating cleansers, followed by exfoliating acid toners, acid serums, beads, grains and scrubs in an attempt to create flawless tone and texture, but sadly this type of product strategy tends to make skin worse,” she warns. “Many of the skin conditions that I see and treat in the clinic are self-inflicted because of this. Sturnham, the trend for ‘over-exfoliation’ is a big issue. But despite the shelves being stuffed with various chemical exfoliators, from toners to serums and creams, good results only come from educated use.Īccording to Dr. Where skincare acids were once approached with caution – especially outside of the confines of a clinic – many of us are now happy to experiment with different acid-based products. So, although you won’t actually see your skin exfoliating, you’ll soon see and feel the smoother textured, more radiant-looking skin." How much glycolic acid is too much? "The skin then naturally sheds its old, dead skin cells. It’s a versatile multi-tasker.”Īs they get to work, you often feel a tingle in the skin, which is when the desmosome (the glue-like substance which holds old skin cells together) is broken down. “Glycolic acid has been shown in studies to have dermal influence, boosting collagen-remodelling cells (which helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles), and melanocyte-stabilising properties, meaning it works well for pigmentation, too. “AHAs are water soluble, so they work well on the superficial skin layers, which we call the epidermis,” explains Dr. This is why acid-based products are often referred to as ‘chemical exfoliators’, in contrast to traditional, grit-based ‘physical exfoliators’, which are now largely regarded as the inferior option due to their abrasive nature. It therefore gently resurfaces skin without the need for scrubbing. Glycolic acid, like other AHAs, acts on the surface layer of the skin, loosening and dissolving the ‘cement’ between dead cells. This, however, means more sensitive types may find its resurfacing effects harder to tolerate. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecules of all AHAs, enabling it to effectively penetrate the upper layers of the skin. "It is part of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family, which also includes other well-known ingredients, such as lactic acid.” Anita Sturnham, a GP specialising in dermatology and founder of skincare line Decree. “Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliating ingredient that is derived from sugar cane,” explains Dr. Here, the experts break down everything you should know about glycolic acid. While the exfoliating, brightening, pigment-fading powers of this hard-working resurfacing compound are indeed formidable, incorrect or overzealous use of glycolic acid can wreak havoc with your skin barrier. But, as with all things in skincare, more is not always more. This active ingredient has boomed in recent years, with demand for brighter, clearer skin leading brands to funnel a dose of glycolic into everything from face washes to serums. Take a glance at the bottles on your skincare shelf: chances are, at least one of them contains glycolic acid.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |